The latest coffee I’ve purchased from Intelligentsia:
Zirikana, Rwanda
A unique departure from the classic profile of Rwandan coffees, the cup is smooth and seamless, with notes of molasses, dark chocolate and black tea. Low in acidity, the coffee is heavy in body and finishes with a touch of spice and malt.
by Geoff Watts
Location: Byumba Province, District of Humure
Varietal: Bourbon
Altitude: 1500-1900 meters
Harvest: April – June
Characteristics
Acidity: Gentle, mild
Flavor: Maple, milk chocolate, licorice root
Finish: Brown sugar, molasses
Tasting Notes
A unique departure from the classic profile of Rwandan coffees, the cup is smooth and seamless, with notes of molasses, dark chocolate and black tea. Low in acidity, the coffee is heavy in body and finishes with a touch of spice and malt.
Geoff Watts’ Notes
Traditionally the vast majority of Rwandan coffee was sold to European commercial roasters at below-market prices as a cheap option for blending. The quality was low and the farmers were paid next to nothing for their work.
Fast forward to 2007, and there is a whole new reality. Rwanda is producing some of the cleanest coffee in all of Africa and is a hot new option in the Specialty market, so much so that Roasters are actually fighting with each other to obtain some of these outstanding beans. Producers are getting better prices than many well-known and historically successful Central American farms, and there is a mad scramble to try to cement long-term relationships with some of the cooperatives there.
Perhaps the most astonishing fact of this turnaround is that it happened in less than 6 years. In 2000 the PEARL (Partnership to Enhance Agriculture in Rwanda through Linkages) Project was initiated with the goal of creating better economic opportunities for farmers in Rwanda. An educational program was created to teach members of the local coffee cooperatives quality protocols for handling coffees post-harvest, and in June of 2004 professional tasters from the US and Europe were brought in to provide cupping training and roasting lessons for young students who would later become the quality specialists for their respective cooperatives.
I have been deeply involved in this process since 2003 and have traveled to Rwanda seven times in the last three years to teach, taste, and help in the effort to build momentum. Over this period I’ve developed a relationship with the coffees and the people there that is personal, emotional, incredibly gratifying, and above all, exciting as this is really just the beginning for their new industry. Already, over 20,000 farmers have more than doubled their annual income. There are nearly 30 new washing stations in operation throughout the country, and the country’s goal is now to have 100 stations by 2010. Next year Rwanda will become the first country on the African continent to host a Cup of Excellence competition, opening even more opportunity for international recognition.
We chose to name this coffee Zirikana (a Kinyarwandan word meaning “show your commitment”) because that’s what this whole coffee gig is about. A lot of the origin investments aimed at improving quality have been made on faith in the hope that they will lead to better coffees and higher prices. The time is now to show producers that coffee farming can indeed be a sustainable and profitable endeavor and that the market will reward quality with real premiums, not just words… and it works both ways. We ask that the farmers show a continuing commitment towards advancing cup quality and preserving the natural environment. When these sorts of two-way commitments are forged and maintained, the future begins to look a lot brighter for everyone!