I’m sitting at home enjoying a cup of Yemen Mocca Matari coffee, purchased this week in Alexandria, VA at Misha’s Coffee.  It’s really interesting and delicious, and roasted right in their shop.

I purchased a pound each of:

  • Yemen Mocca Matari: Very sharp, smokey aroma.  Medium-bodied cup with very smokey flavor and pronounced tanginess.  French Roast.

  • Zimbabwe: Pungent, smokey aroma.  Full-bodied and richly acid.  French Roast.

  • Java Kayumas Estate: Deep, sweet aroma.  Heavy body with delicate acidity.  Very distinctive flavor.  Full City Roast.

The prices were very reasonable and they have online ordering!

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The latest coffee I’ve purchased from Intelligentsia:

Zirikana, Rwanda

A unique departure from the classic profile of Rwandan coffees, the cup is smooth and seamless, with notes of molasses, dark chocolate and black tea. Low in acidity, the coffee is heavy in body and finishes with a touch of spice and malt.

by Geoff Watts

Location:  Byumba Province, District of Humure
Varietal:  Bourbon
Altitude:  1500-1900 meters
Harvest:  April – June
Characteristics

Acidity:  Gentle, mild
Flavor:  Maple, milk chocolate, licorice root
Finish:  Brown sugar, molasses
Tasting Notes

A unique departure from the classic profile of Rwandan coffees, the cup is smooth and seamless, with notes of molasses, dark chocolate and black tea. Low in acidity, the coffee is heavy in body and finishes with a touch of spice and malt.
Geoff Watts’ Notes

Traditionally the vast majority of Rwandan coffee was sold to European commercial roasters at below-market prices as a cheap option for blending. The quality was low and the farmers were paid next to nothing for their work.

Fast forward to 2007, and there is a whole new reality.  Rwanda is producing some of the cleanest coffee in all of Africa and is a hot new option in the Specialty market, so much so that Roasters are actually fighting with each other to obtain some of these outstanding beans.  Producers are getting better prices than many well-known and historically successful Central American farms, and there is a mad scramble to try to cement long-term relationships with some of the cooperatives there.

Perhaps the most astonishing fact of this turnaround is that it happened in less than 6 years.  In 2000 the PEARL (Partnership to Enhance Agriculture in Rwanda through Linkages) Project was initiated with the goal of creating better economic opportunities for farmers in Rwanda.  An educational program was created to teach members of the local coffee cooperatives quality protocols for handling coffees post-harvest, and in June of 2004 professional tasters from the US and Europe were brought in to provide cupping training and roasting lessons for young students who would later become the quality specialists for their respective cooperatives.

I have been deeply involved in this process since 2003 and have traveled to Rwanda seven times in the last three years to teach, taste, and help in the effort to build momentum.  Over this period I’ve developed a relationship with the coffees and the people there that is personal, emotional, incredibly gratifying, and above all, exciting as this is really just the beginning for their new industry.  Already, over 20,000 farmers have more than doubled their annual income.  There  are nearly 30 new washing stations in operation throughout the country, and the country’s goal is now to have 100 stations by 2010.  Next year Rwanda will become the first country on the African continent to host a Cup of Excellence competition, opening even more opportunity for international recognition.

We chose to name this coffee Zirikana (a Kinyarwandan word meaning “show your commitment”) because that’s what this whole coffee gig is about. A lot of the origin investments aimed at improving quality have been made on faith in the hope that they will lead to better coffees and higher prices. The time is now to show producers that coffee farming can indeed be a sustainable and profitable endeavor and that the market will reward quality with real premiums, not just words… and it works both ways. We ask that the farmers show a continuing commitment towards advancing cup quality and preserving the natural environment. When these sorts of two-way commitments are forged and maintained, the future begins to look a lot brighter for everyone!

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While in Cambridge, I went to Peet’s Coffee, and purchased 3 offerings:

Aged Sumatra

A very rich coffee with a slight hint of a tropical wood flavor, a concentrated dried fruit sweetness, herbal notes, and ample body.

Good aged coffees are very hard to find, due to the lengthy aging process and the fact that coffee exporters usually want to convert their coffee to cash as soon as possible. But there are a few who are willing to wait, knowing that the fine aged coffee can be worth quite a bit more. The challenge is to find the coffee that was good enough in the first place to become the aged coffee worthy of Peet’s customers.

Aging must take place in a tropical environment, where beans take on moisture at the height of the monsoon season, and give it back during the drier season, without ever drying completely. This process deepens the flavor and makes it mellower, while accentuating certain taste components over others.

Sulawesi-Kalosi

A rare coffee with unusual depth and complexity. Rich, full body with a hint of nutty earthiness.

Sulawesi is another island in the Indonesian archipelago. The best quality coffees from Sulawesi are grown and processed in the area called Torajaland, near the upcountry town of Rantepao. The Toraja people have an interesting cultural history that carries over to their methods of producing coffee in very traditional ways. The coffee trees are grown on small plots around the villagers’ houses, and the entire family takes part in the picking and processing. We’ve even seen coffee trees growing on the edges of the rice paddies that provide the diet staple. Coffee is a cash crop that supplements the family income.

There is something about these age-old traditional methods that give Sulawesi Kalosi coffee its unique flavor. It exhibits a rich, full body; moderate, well-balanced acidity; and a multidimensional aromatic character with prominent herbal, nutty, and pleasantly sweet woody notes. This is a rare coffee and somewhat expensive, but it is one of the finest in the world. 

Arabian Mocha Sanani

Distinctive, pungent, winy flavor; full-bodied and exceedingly complex aromatic character.

Grown in Yemen on the Arabian Peninsula, these small, rounded beans are irregular in form, size, and color. Despite this abnormality (or perhaps because of it), they yield one of the finest cups of coffee on Earth. Arabian Mocha Sanani has a distinctive, pungent, winy flavor that is very full-bodied and that is accompanied by an exceedingly complex aromatic character. This coffee is excellent either straight or blended, as in the classic blend with Java. Its singular flavor can complement nearly any other coffee.

The mocha variety of coffee grows on barely cultivated land on low bushes that develop under very dry conditions. When the majority of coffee cherries are ripe, the farmers pick all the cherries at once and spread them out to dry on hardened earth patios. The dried cherries are passed through millstones to remove the hulls and to release the two coffee beans inside.

This rather primitive method of producing coffee goes back centuries and accounts for the classic flavor that this wonderful coffee displays. It’s worth noting that this coffee is grown organically. It is not something the farmers set out to do, but there is probably no more primitive coffee-growing area on Earth. The region is very remote, and the dried coffee must be carried out of the steep valleys by donkeys.

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I placed another order this morning from Intelligentsia.   I used to only prefer coffees from Africa and the Pacific, but after trying their Peru last time (and loving it), I decided I would try one of their recommended American Coffees – Los Immortales™,  from El Salvador.

LOS INMORTALES™, EL SALVADOR

Location: Santa Ana / La Libertad
Varietal: bourbon
Altitude: 1450-1700 meters asl
Soil: clay sandy loam, volcanic ash

Characteristics:

Acidity: round, supple, medium
Body: full
Flavor: semi-sweet chocolate, black cherry
Finish: sweet cocoa finish, clean and very smooth

Tasting Notes:

A study in elegance. The cup manages to be both bold and nuanced to equal degrees. There is abundant depth, and the detail is stunning—wonderfully articulated flavors of black cherry, raw maple syrup, semi-sweet chocolate with sweet cocoa notes underpinning the whole experience. The classic bourbon character really shines through in this immaculately prepared coffee.

Kenya – Kita-Oro Auction Lot

Altitude: 1500-2100 meters
Varietals: SL-28, SL-34
Soil type: red clay, sandy
Annual Production: 1.6 million bags
Harvest Time: October – January (main crop), June – August (secondary crop)

Characteristics:

Aroma: Potent, sweet floral and lemon
Acidity: Very bright, sweet, slightly citric
Body: Full, clean, supple
Flavor: Intense, loads of floral and black currant notes, citron, very sweet and tremendously articulate

Tasting Notes:

This is one of those coffees that can leave one speechless with wonder. It all begins with the aroma, intense and enticing. A gorgeous combination of floral and citrus scents provide a preview of what will be found in the cup. As the cup cools, a classic black currant flavor emerges and resonates all the way through the finish. The sweetness is abundant and omnipresent, greeting one at first sip and trailing off serenely several seconds after swallowing. It all ends with a shadow of sweet currant lingering a few moments before disappearing cleanly and leaving a silly grin of pleasure.

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A couple weekends ago, we were at the Promenade Mall in Rogers.

I needed some coffee, so I went into Starbucks to get it.

In front of us in line was a couple of guys.  Tired of waiting in line, one tells his buddy that he’s going to wait outside.

The other one asks, “Do you want anything?”  His friend replies, “Yeah.  Order me something really gay.”

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I’m running low on coffee. That means one thing – ordering coffee from Intelligentia ! (Ordering it today means that it’ll be roasted within the next day or two, and in my paws by the end of the week)

Alas, they were out of the Rwanda, which is probably my current favorite, but I ordered:

Idido Misty Valley Natural, Ethiopia Yergacheffe

Characteristics:

Acidity: zesty, round
Body: syrupy, thick, velvety
Flavor: candied fruit, wild berries, red grape
Finish: spicy, winy, sweet

Tasting Notes:

A coffee for those who love fruit and zest, the Idido saturates the palate with flavors reminiscent of candied fruit, wild berry, and grape jelly. An especially full and syrupy body provides a great playground for all of the flavors, and adds to the coffee’s distinct dessert-like character.

Sumatra, Lake Tawar

Characteristics:

Acidity: Soft, fruity
Body: Syrupy, full
Flavor: Perfumey, floral, molasses, chocolate
Finish: Apricot, chocolate

Tasting Notes:

Everything you have ever wanted from a Sumatra but were never able to find. The impeccable processing provides a wet, refreshing coffee with syrupy molasses and ripe apricot. Intense herbal and floral notes give the cup a huge presence and taste.

Cruz del Sur™, Organic Peru

Characteristics:

Acidity: crisp, buoyant
Body: medium, satiny
Flavor: pear, fruit cocktail, semi-sweet
Finish: clean, sweet, chocolate

Tasting Notes:

Sweet and delicate fruit combined with notes of semi-sweet chocolate are what make this coffee go. The flavors are held together cleanly and without interference—seamless and refreshing. The acidity is buoyant and round, and the satiny body is balanced and supportive while maintaining a pleasant sense of levity.

New Guinea

With seedlings from the Jamaica Blue Mountain region, cultivation of coffee began in Papua New Guinea in the late 30′s. It offers full syrupy body, balanced snappy acidity, and wonderful complexity. Some say it is reminiscent of what Jamaica Blue Mountain used to taste like.

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This is currently my favorite Coffee.  I picked up a pound while in Chicago this summer, and I’m about to place an order for at least two more bags of it.

Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea, Inc. – Rwanda

Over the last three years Rwanda has become Africa’s most actively improving coffee country. Its many cooperatives are now producing some of the cleanest coffee on the continent, and this lot is a great example of what you should learn to expect from the ‘Land of 1,000 Hills’.

by Geoff Watts

Location: Butare, Kibuye and Byumba provinces
Varietal: Bourbon
Altitude: 1650-2100 meters

Description

Fruity in nature and tart in acidity, this gem offers dominant notes of peach, strawberry and lemon. The body is clean and rich and finishes sweet, with traces of wine, syrupy cocktail fruit and cocoa.

Tasting Notes

Exceptionally sweet and smooth. When hot there is a profound caramel-toffee sweetness that yields to soft dark fruit and berry notes as the cup cools. Very clean, extremely silky. Plenty of fruit and acidic nuance but maintains a sweet, approachable charisma that has universal appeal.

Geoff Watts’ Notes

Traditionally the vast majority of Rwandan coffee was sold to European commercial roasters at below-market prices as a cheap option for blending. The quality was low and the farmers were paid next to nothing for their work.

Fast forward to 2006, and there is a whole new reality. Rwanda is producing some of the cleanest coffee in all of Africa and is a hot new option in the Specialty market, so much so that Roasters are actually fighting with each other to obtain some of these outstanding beans. Producers are getting better prices than many well-known and historically successful Central American farms, and there is a mad scramble to try to cement long-term relationships with some of the cooperatives there.

Perhaps the most astonishing fact of this turnaround is that it happened in less than 6 years. In 2000 the PEARL (Partnership to Enhance Agriculture in Rwanda through Linkages) Project was initiated with the goal of creating better economic opportunities for farmers in Rwanda. An educational program was created to teach members of the local coffee cooperatives quality protocols for handling coffees post-harvest, and in June of 2004 professional tasters from the US and Europe were brought in to provide cupping training and roasting lessons for young students who would later become the quality specialists for their respective cooperatives.
Click for larger image

I have been deeply involved in this process since 2003 and have traveled to Rwanda seven times in the last three years to teach, taste, and help in the effort to build momentum. Over this period I’ve developed a relationship with the coffees and the people there that is personal, emotional, incredibly gratifying, and above all, exciting as this is really just the beginning for their new industry. Already, over 20,000 farmers have more than doubled their annual income. There nearly 30 new washing stations in operation throughout the country, and the country’s goal is now to have 100 stations by 2010.

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Jun 042006
 

i got a new coffee/espresso pot:

10 cup Bialetti (GB) Susy
Susy

Produced in 18/10 stainless steel including inside components, with polished finish and insulated curved stylish black handle with rounded knob. This pot is also suitable for all hobs including gas and electric.

I just made some coffee, and… IT’S TOO HOT FOR TELEVISION !
Must let it cool !

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Jill’s mom just returned from vacation (London and Paris), and brought me two bags of coffee from Cafes Estrella in Paris. One bag was just labeled “Kenyan”, the other “Maragogype Mexique”.

Maragogype:

A spectacular, large coffee bean. Medium roasted it has a very mild full flavour with delicate acidity, suitable for a mild breakfast or morning coffee. Very dark roasted, its character is powerful, but with almost no acidity. Medium roasted, we recommend preparation in filter makers. Serve black or with cream. Very dark roasted, we recommend preparation in Cafetières or espresso makers. Serve black.

Mexican Maragogype: This large, mutated bean is low in both caffeine and acid, making it the perfect coffee for those who require low caffeine and acidity. Light Flavor.

Cafes Estrella – 34, Rue Saint-Sulpice
75006 Paris – Tel. 01 46 33 16 37

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“Oh, God, I hate decaffeinated coffee … It’s like low-alcohol gin. What’s the point?” – David Letterman

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