Copyright 1993 Newsday, Inc. Newsday June 4, 1993, Friday, NASSAU AND SUFFOLK EDITION SECTION: PART II/WEEKEND; Pg. 87 Other Edition: City Pg. 79 LENGTH: 1078 words HEADLINE: STEPPING BACK INTO THE '60s AND '70s; Jellyfish Is a Tasty - If Sometimes Familiar - Catch BYLINE: Wayne Robins; Denise Flaim BODY: JELLYFISH, which appears tonight at the Academy, is as appealing as it is sometimes frustrating. Main writers Andy Sturmer and Roger Manning compose gorgeous melodies that lend their songs an immediate familiarity - the effortless catchiness of their tun es sometimes recalls the buoyant pop of Squeeze. But they sometimes come so close to the material that inspired them - '60s Beatles / Beach Boys pop and '70s power pop - that the line blurs between homage and copy. The band's second album, "Spilt Milk" (Charisma), features a song called "The Ghost at Number One" that is pure Beach Boys redux, from the soaring harmonies to orchestral intimations of "God Only Knows." At the fade, it recalls "Good Vibrations," right d own to what sounds like a theremin. "Hush," the album's opening track, is an exercise in Brian Wilson harmonics. But "The Ghost at Number One" isn't the only spirit hovering over the album. "Bye Bye Bye" is a condensed visitation to Paul McCartney's past, from "Sgt. Pepper" to Wings. It's no surprise that Ringo Starr covered a Sturmer-Manning song ("I Don't Believe You") on "Time Takes Time," his most recent album. Other material on "Spilt Milk," like "Joining a Fan Club," evokes Beatle-wannabes like Badfinger and the Raspberries: On "Fan Club," Sturmer does an imitation of the Raspberries' Eric Carmen that's so skillful it sounds like a voiceprint. The layered production techniques of the '70s are laid on thick by a team that includes Albhy Galuten, who worked on many Bee Gees records from that era. (Galuten also produced Jellyfish's 1990 debut album). Most of the times the production suits the son gs, but occasionally, as on the gauzy "Russian Hill," the tracks are weighed down with pretension. Pretension, unfortunately, also mars Jellyfish's lyrics. Only Elvis Costello should have license to make rhymes like "Truth and avarice encircle his words like a barber pole. Twisted and useless, till they disappear in her camisole," as Sturmer and Manni ng do on "All Is Forgiven." And no one should have license to title a song "Glutton of Sympathy," which begins: "In the breathless hush of four a.m., in the dark sits a sad cliche . . . " That kind of overreach neutralizes some of the surface pleasures of "Spilt Milk." Jellyfish. Tonight at the Academy, 234 W. 43rd St. Antenna also performs. Show time 8 p.m. (212) 249-8870.