Copyright 1993 The Time Inc. Magazine Company People April 26, 1993 SECTION: PICKS & PANS; Song; Pg. 21 LENGTH: 1165 words BYLINE: ERIC LEVIN, TONY SCHERMAN, AMY LINDEN, DAVID GROGAN BODY: SPILT MILK Jellyfish The deep-sided sandbox of two talented 27-year-old San Franciscans, Andy Sturmer and Roger Manning, Jellyfish is a band driven by an ebullient love of pop and rock's whole gonzo arsenal of expression and a determination to craft every song into a fully l oaded, to-the-max, minimasterpiece. Spilt Milk, the band's second album, gives you flickers of Queen, Squeeze, Supertramp, bubblegum and the Beatles, to name a few, but the influences all get refracted in the fun-house mirror of Jellyfish's nonstop celebr ation of melody, vocal harmony and conceptual lavishness. Spilt Milk is hard to summarize because its 12 cuts are so varied, yet it all hangs together. The album opens with "Hush," a lullaby of almost Disneyesque intensity, sung in multipart harmony, then moves into a swashbuckling arena-rock fantasy about teen age adulation, "Joining a Fan Club." Even within songs, tempos and rhythms change, the band shades from a whisper to a wall of sound. Chimes toll over a plinking banjo for a few key bars. Tubas, alto flutes and other instruments sweep in as needed. While digital sampling turns rap into a recycling center for old riffs, and drum machines make dance floors robotic, Jellyfish goes for epic scale and soaring emotion on every cut and parachutes to safety each time, bobbing on the waves like a jellyfish, and st inging like one too. (Charisma) -- ERIC LEVIN DON'T TOAST THEM WITH A GLASS OF SAND Are Andy Sturmer and Roger Manning Jellyfish or ostriches? They recorded Spilt Milk in Los Angeles last year during and after the riots, yet it is one of the most bounteous, fervid and rage-free rock records in years. "We see the same world everybody els e sees, but we're optimists," says Sturmer, the drummer, guitarist and lead singer who has been best friends with pianist, guitarist and vocalist Manning since 1980, their freshman year at Amador High School in Pleasanton, Calif. "Music is the most wonder ful invention for us to cope with what's going on. If you look at the world as just a terrible arid desert, you'll be crushed. Since you must walk through, why not take a big sip of water instead of a glass of sand? I don't need lyrics telling me who to r oot for politically or that we've blown it as a society. For us, it's more how you deal with individual emotions." Plenty of those sloshed around during the making of Spilt Milk. "We had a couple of members leave the band after Bellybutton [Jellyfish's praised 1990 debut album], and we had lots of hassles trying to put the record together. We thought it sounded good, but it also took too long and cost too much. But we couldn't cry over spilt milk -- hence the title. We just had to have tunnel vision and finish this monster we heard in our heads. We're overachievers in an underachieving world. So we worked 14 hours a day, six days a week, for six months to finish it. Once I literally passed out doing a vocal and woke up in the next room. Making this record was like that Army commercial: 'The toughest job you'll ever love.'" -- ERIC LEVIN GRAPHIC: Picture 1, JELLYFISH "We have a very grand concept of what we're trying to do," says Andy Sturmer (front) with co-leader Roger Manning and bandmates Eric Dover and Tim Smith. descBlack and white: Members of the group Jellyfish., PETER DARLEY/MILL ER;